Gardening Guides
No fluff, no 3,000-word detours. Each guide answers the question you actually asked, with the dates and numbers sourced to university extension services. Pair them with the free garden tools to make it specific to your spot.
Frost Basics →
Frost-Tolerant Vegetables: Which Ones Survive Cold, and at What Temperature
Which vegetables tolerate frost, and at what temperature. Four groups — tender to very-hardy — from our plant data, mapped to sourced extension temps.
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Will It Frost Tonight? Read the Signs in Your Own Yard
Will it frost tonight? Read your own yard: the three signs of a frost night, the dew-point rule, and why your low spots run colder than the forecast.
Read the guide →Frost Protection →
When to Plant →
Which Fruit Grows in a Container: Ask Pollination Before Pot Size
In a container you have one plant. Seven of our 26 fruit crops will never set fruit alone, no matter the pot — and that is the question to settle before you buy anything.
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How Long to Harden Off Seedlings: What Six Extension Services Actually Say
Extension services do not agree on how long hardening off takes — the range runs seven to fourteen days. Here is what each one says, why the temperature matters more than the count, and the two crops that invert the whole thing in opposite directions.
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When to Plant Garlic: Zone-by-Zone Fall Planting Windows
When to plant garlic by zone: about 1–2 weeks after your first killing frost. Late September into October in zones 3–6, into November in 7–8, and later in the South.
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How to Grow Potatoes in a Bucket: One Plant Per Bucket, and Why
New Hampshire Extension gives the number nobody else does — five gallons of soil per plant. That turns the vague advice into arithmetic you can do with buckets you already own. Depth, hilling, and when to tip it out.
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How to Grow Tomatoes in Pots: The Size Everyone Quotes Is for a Different Plant
Five gallons is real advice — for a compact tomato. Seven out of ten tomato varieties are not compact, and that mismatch is why container tomatoes stall in July. Pot size, how to tell what you bought, and 33 varieties that actually fit.
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What You Cannot Grow in a 5-Gallon Bucket — It Is Not the Depth
Everybody says buckets are too shallow. They are not — a bucket meets the depth Maryland Extension's deepest class asks for. The real limits are width and weight.
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What Planting Zone Am I In? Find Yours, Then See What It Decides
Look up your USDA hardiness zone in one click, then find out what the number is actually for: 53 perennial crops and the coldest zone each one survives. Plus the one thing your zone will never tell you.
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What to Grow in a 5-Gallon Bucket — and the Four Crops That Don't Fit
Maryland Extension publishes container sizes twice, in two different systems, and the two answers straddle the five-gallon line. A bucket is right for beans, carrots, chard, cherry tomatoes and cabbage. For tomatoes and peppers it is the floor, not the answer.
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When to Plant Tomatoes in Your Zone (And Why the Zone Can't Tell You)
Your hardiness zone describes your coldest winter night, not when spring freezes stop. Here is what actually sets your tomato date, and how far apart two gardens in the same state really are.
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When to Start Seeds Indoors: Count Back From Your Own Last Frost
Every seed-starting date is counted back from one date: your last spring frost. Here is that date for 28 US metros, the weeks to count back for 20 crops, and what to do if you started early.
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When to Plant Carrots: Two Temperatures, Not One
You can sow carrots at 40°F. They germinate best at 55 to 65°F and take two to three weeks to show. The gap between those numbers is where most carrot rows are lost.
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How to Start Seeds Indoors: The Number Is Two Inches
Every guide says give seedlings adequate light. Minnesota gives the number — the lamp goes two to four inches above the leaves — and names lack of light as the cause of leggy stems.
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When to Plant Onions: As Early as You Can, Not Earlier
Onions are the hardiest thing you grow, and you can still plant them too early — cold doesn't kill them, it makes them bolt. Meanwhile bulbing starts on day length, not on your date.
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When to Plant Potatoes: The Crop That Doesn't Wait
Potatoes go in before the last frost, because a frost costs them two weeks rather than the crop. What they actually wait for is soil at 50°F — not a date, and not your zone.
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Sweet Potato Slips: The Sprouts Are the Plant
A sprouting sweet potato is not spoiled, it is starting. Those shoots are slips, and they are how the crop is grown — with or without roots on them. Here is how to raise them.
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When to Transplant Seedlings: Two Jobs, One Phrase
Potting up and planting out are months apart and wait on different things. The one people delay is the one that wants doing sooner — as soon as the first true leaves appear.
Read the guide →Summer Heat →
Plant Problems →
Cabbage Worms: Three Green Caterpillars, and You Tell Them Apart by Poking Them
Imported cabbageworm, cabbage looper and diamondback moth are all green and all called cabbage worms. Color will not separate them. What they do when you touch them will.
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Cucumber Beetles: Stripes Mean the Grubs Are in Your Roots, Spots Mean They Are Not
Two quarter-inch beetles share the name and look alike. Only the striped one's larvae feed on cucurbit roots — UC IPM says exclusively. That decides what a wilting plant means.
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Cucumber Leaves Turning Yellow: The Straight-Edged Patches Are the Tell
Straight-edged yellowing that stops at the veins narrows it to two — downy mildew or angular leaf spot — and the underside of the leaf decides which. The cucumber differential, extension-sourced.
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Blossom End Rot: It Is a Calcium Problem, and the Calcium Spray Cannot Fix It
The fruit really is short of calcium. Your soil usually is not. Clemson names the spray as a myth for two mechanical reasons — and the actual fix is how you water.
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Damping Off: There Is No Cure, So the Whole Job Is Getting Seedlings Past It Fast
Several unrelated organisms share the name, and unusually it does not matter which one you have. Wisconsin's advice is to germinate warm so seedlings 'rapidly grow out of the stage'.
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Downy Mildew: The Straight-Edged Patches Are a Cucumber Thing
The angular, vein-bounded lesion everyone teaches is cucumber's tell. NC State says it is less reliable on watermelon and cantaloupe — and basil's downy mildew is a different genus entirely.
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Fusarium Wilt: The One in Your Tomato Bed Cannot Touch Your Beans
It is not one disease. Each fusarium wilt is locked to its own host — UC IPM says the tomato one 'infects tomatoes only.' That changes what you can plant there next year.
Read the guide →Leaf Miners: By the Time You See the Tunnels, Spraying Is Too Late
The grub is sealed inside the leaf where sprays cannot reach it. Minnesota Extension also says the damage barely matters — unless the leaf is the part you eat.
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Squash Bugs: Why Spraying the Ones You Can See Does Not Work
By the time you notice adult squash bugs, spray is the weakest tool you have. The whole fight is eggs and freshly hatched nymphs — here's the timing, extension-sourced.
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Tomato Blight: One Name, Two Diseases, and Opposite Instructions
Early blight is yours to manage over a season. Late blight is a water mold that blows in, kills in days, and puts your neighbors' plants at risk. Telling them apart decides what you do today.
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Tomato Leaves Curling: Which Way They Roll Tells You Whether Anything Is Wrong
Rolling upward from the lower leaves is physiological leaf roll — UC IPM says it is not caused by a pathogen and will not harm plants. Rolling downward with twisted growth is something else.
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Tomato Hornworm: How to Find It, and the One You Must Not Kill
Find hornworms by their droppings, not by hunting green on green. And if yours is covered in white cocoons, leave it — it's already dead and working for you.
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Tomato Leaves Turning Yellow: How to Tell Which Cause It Is
Yellow tomato leaves have five common causes and the yellow alone can't tell them apart. Use the spots, the pattern, and which leaves are hit — extension-sourced.
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Flea Beetles: When the Shot-Holes Matter and When They Don't
Tiny holes peppered through your leaves, and beetles that jump when you lean in. On a two-week-old seedling that is urgent. On a grown plant it is not.
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Spider Mites: Why the Spray Often Makes It Worse
Too small to see, so you diagnose the leaf. Three extension services name the sprays people reach for as a cause of spider mite outbreaks. Here is what to do instead.
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Japanese Beetles: Why the Trap Makes It Worse
Metallic green head, coppery wings, leaves eaten to lace. Two extension services find the traps pull in more beetles than they catch. Here is what to do instead.
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Aphids: How to Be Sure, and When to Leave Them
Every aphid has two tiny tailpipes at the back end, and nothing else on your plants does. Minnesota says most aphid populations can simply be ignored. Here is when that holds.
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Septoria Leaf Spot: The Tell Is Inside the Spot
Many small spots, pale centers, and tiny black specks in the middle of each one. That last detail is what separates Septoria from early blight, and it decides what you do next.
Read the guide →Garden Planning →
When to Harvest →
When to Harvest Garlic: Two Signs, One Test
The leaves are the bulb's wrappers, which is why they tell you when to dig and why waiting too long costs you. Plus the test that settles it: pull one and cut it across.
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When to Harvest Potatoes: Two Crops, One Plant
New potatoes come at seven or eight weeks. Storage potatoes need the tops to die back and then two more weeks in the ground, which is the step that thickens the skin.
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