Tomato variety

Yellow Pear Tomato

Yellow Pear is a centuries-old heirloom that produces little golden pear-shaped tomatoes by the hundreds. The vine is big and rampant, it fruits all season until frost, and it's a favorite for kids' gardens and salad bowls for its looks and sheer generosity. The one honest caveat: the flavor is mild and mellow, not a bold cherry-tomato punch.

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Yellow Pear tomato — a cluster of ripe Yellow Pear tomatoes — small, bright-yellow, pear-shaped fruit
a cluster of ripe Yellow Pear tomatoes — small, bright-yellow, pear-shaped fruit · Photo: Eric Polk (CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons) · source
IndeterminateHeirloomCherry / snacking

“A centuries-old heirloom that buries you in cute yellow pear-shaped fruit — pretty and prolific, if mild.”

Days to first ripe70–80 daysthen all season long
Plant6–8 ft rampant vinebig and sprawling — stake it tall
Fruit~1–2 in pear shapebite-size, borne in clusters
Productivity Relentless 5/5

One of the most prolific tomatoes you can grow — a single plant can hand you hundreds of fruit and keep going until frost.

Flavor Mild & mellow 3/5

Pleasant, lightly sweet, low-acid — but honestly on the bland side next to a good cherry like Sun Gold. You grow it for looks and yield as much as taste.

Flavor intensity Gentle, not punchy 2/5

Mild and a bit one-note — if you want a knock-your-socks-off cherry, this isn't it.

Size of plant It wants room 2/5

A big, rampant vine that can overwhelm a small bed and self-seeds freely — give it space and a tall support.

How well it stores Eat it soon 2/5

Thin-skinned bite-size fruit — best within a few days of picking.

You trade bold flavor for sheer generosity and charm — it's a kids'-garden and salad-bowl classic.

MildLightly sweetLow-acidMellow
✓ Endless pretty snacking fruit~ Big vine — give it room✗ Not for bold flavor or sauce

Numbers from university growing guides. Ratings are our take, judged against all tomatoes. Tap a meter to see why.

Growing basics — shared by every tomato

Yellow Pear grows like any other tomato. The full picture — how deep to plant, spacing, feeding, pests, harvest — lives on the Tomato page so it's maintained in one place.

Sun
Full Sun
Spacing (in row)
18–36 in
Row spacing
36–60 in
Planting depth
0.25–0.5 in
Soil pH
6–6.8
Water
Moderate
Full tomato growing guide + all 115 varieties →

When is a Yellow Pear tomato ripe?

pick
GreenGreenish-yellowPale yellowPick it

Yellow Pear ripens to a clear, cheerful pale-to-bright yellow. Pick when the fruit is fully yellow and comes away with a light tug — they hold on the vine well, so harvest little and often.

The stages: Green → Greenish-yellow → Pale yellow → Pick it. Grab it at that last stage.

How big is a Yellow Pear tomato?

Yellow Pear 1.3″
Golf ball 1.7″
Baseball 2.9″

A bite-size pear shape — only about 1½ inches long and an ounce or so, borne in long clusters.

Bush or vine? Yellow Pear's size & support

Grows as
A tall vine that keeps growing all season (indeterminate)
Height & support
Tall — plan for 6–8 ft of cage or stake
Trimming
Optional: snip off the little side sprouts (called “suckers”) for a tidier plant
Picking
A few at a time, right up to the first frost

Our take for a vine like this — the real height depends on your soil and summer.

What is Yellow Pear good for?

  • Fresh snackingBite-size and kid-friendly. Great
  • Salads & garnishThe golden pears are gorgeous whole. Great
  • RoastingHalve and roast to sweeten them up. Great
  • Preserves & picklingCute whole in a jar. Great
  • Sauce & slicingToo small and mild for either. Skip it

Our take, from how it grows and tastes — not every kitchen agrees.

Does it ripen all at once, or a bit at a time?

A little at a time. You pick a few every few days, from the first ripe one until frost.

A plant like this keeps making new fruit for weeks, so you pick a few at a time. Plan your kitchen around it.

Your growing zone
…or your ZIP, for your real frost dates

Want the full 10/50/90% odds + nearest stations? Open the frost tool →

When to plant Yellow Pear in your zone

Zone 6b
Start seeds indoors
Toughen up outside
Move plants outside
Growing
Picking
Right now · zone 6b ·
IndoorsToughen upMove outSeeds outsideGrowingPickingToday

Comfortable — first ripe fruit lands around early Jul, well before your typical frost (~late Oct).

Start seeds indoors
mid Feb – early Mar
Toughen up outside
mid Apr – late Apr
Move plants outside
late Apr – early May
Growing
early May – early Jul
Picking
early Jul until frost (~late Oct)

Typical dates for zone 6b — set your zone or ZIP above for yours.

What to plant near Yellow Pear — and what to keep away

Good neighbors
  • BasilTrialed

    Basil can cut thrips numbers on tomatoes, and a modest yield gain shows up when it is planted at good density. They also want the same heat and water, so the bed suits both.

  • French marigoldTrialed

    Grown thick and turned into the soil, they suppress root-knot nematodes. A couple between plants mostly just look nice.

  • Sweet alyssumTrialed

    Its flowers feed hoverflies, and hoverfly larvae eat aphids. Commercial lettuce growers interplant it for that exact job.

  • LettucePractical

    A tall tomato throws exactly the shade lettuce wants once summer heat makes it flower and turn bitter (bolt).

  • CarrotsTraditional

    'Carrots Love Tomatoes' is a book title, not a trial. They coexist fine — just expect the tomato to shade them by August.

  • Onions & garlicTraditional

    Chart canon says onions and garlic make good tomato neighbors. No trials to point at, no conflict either.

Keep apart
  • Black walnutPractical

    Walnut roots release juglone, and tomatoes are on every sensitivity list. Keep beds well clear of the canopy.

  • FennelPractical

    Fennel foliage and seed are rich in trans-anethole, and extracts of them held back germination and seedling growth across a range of species in testing. Whole-plant effects at garden spacing are milder than the "fennel kills everything" reputation, but the chemistry is real — give it its own pot.

  • PotatoesPractical

    Same family, same late blight. One sick bed infects the other.

  • Sweet cornPractical

    Corn earworm and tomato fruitworm are the same moth. Side by side, you're setting its table twice.

  • Cabbage familyTraditional

    Flagged on the classic charts, mechanism murky. Skip the pairing if you've got the space.

The badge is the honesty. Trialed = a published field trial · Practical = a real mechanism · Traditional = companion-chart lore. These pairings hold for every tomato.

Pairings compiled from University of Minnesota Extension, USDA Agricultural Research Service (Salinas, CA), West Virginia University Extension, Penn State Extension, El-Kenany & El-Darier.

Growing Yellow Pear — the things that trip people up

  • It's astonishingly prolific — one plant can produce hundreds of fruit all season, so a single vine feeds a family of snackers. Pick little and often to keep it setting.
  • It's a big, rampant indeterminate that runs 6–8 feet and sprawls, and it self-seeds freely from dropped fruit. Give it a tall, sturdy support and room to spread.
  • Be honest with yourself about flavor — it's mild and mellow, more charming than intense. Grow it for the endless pretty fruit and snacking, not for a bold cherry-tomato punch.

From university growing guides (see Sources).

Where Yellow Pear comes from

Yellow Pear is one of the older tomatoes still in gardens — a small pear-shaped yellow type documented in Europe by the 1600s and grown in American gardens for well over a century. It's a true heirloom, passed down by saved seed, and it comes back true year after year.

It survived not because it's the best-tasting tomato but because it's pretty, dependable, and impossibly productive — the kind of plant a gardener shares seed from because there's always more than enough.

What it tastes like — and what it's for

Let's be straight: the flavor is mild. Yellow Pear is lightly sweet and low-acid, pleasant and mellow, but it doesn't have the sugary punch of a Sun Gold or the depth of a good red cherry. Plenty of people love that gentleness; others find it a little bland.

Where it shines is the look and the abundance. The little golden pears are gorgeous scattered through a salad, threaded on a skewer, or handed to kids straight off the vine — and there are always, always more. They're also nice halved and roasted, or dropped whole into preserves.

Yellow Pear tomato — Yellow Pear fruit on the plant — the distinctive little pear shape and clear yellow color
Yellow Pear fruit on the plant — the distinctive little pear shape and clear yellow color · Photo: Forest and Kim Starr (CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons) · source

Growing Yellow Pear

Grow it like any tomato — full sun, steady water, regular feeding — with one warning: it's a monster. This is a big, rampant indeterminate that runs 6–8 feet and sprawls wide, and it'll keep pumping out fruit until frost. Give it a tall, sturdy cage or stake at planting and don't tuck it into a tight corner.

It also self-seeds enthusiastically — dropped fruit comes up as volunteers next spring. That's either a gift or a weed depending on your tidiness. Set your zone on the tomato page and the calendar pins your start-and-plant-out dates. Like most heirlooms it has no disease-resistance package, so give it airflow and mulch.

Keeping up with the crop

The real challenge with Yellow Pear isn't growing it — it's keeping up. A single healthy plant can hand you hundreds of fruit over a season, so pick little and often; regular picking actually keeps it setting more.

The fruit holds on the vine well without splitting, so there's no rush to a single big harvest. Ripe means fully, cheerfully yellow and coming away with a light tug.

What goes wrong — and the fixes

Volunteers. Dropped fruit sprouts as seedlings next spring, sometimes by the dozen. If you like the surprise, thin them where you want them; if you don't, pull them young and clean up fallen fruit in autumn.

The occasional split. Like most thin-skinned tomatoes it can crack after a heavy rain following a dry spell — keep the water even and mulch. Otherwise this is a tough, trouble-light plant; the main hazard is simply how much it makes.

Yellow Pear vs a sweet cherry like Sun Gold

If flavor is what you're after, be honest about the choice. A sweet cherry tomato like Sun Gold will out-taste Yellow Pear every time — more sugar, more punch. Yellow Pear's edge is the look, the novelty pear shape, and a yield that just won't quit.

Best of both worlds: grow Yellow Pear for the charm and abundance, and add one sweeter cherry alongside it for the flavor. Between them you'll never run short of snacking tomatoes.

Yellow Pear tomato at a glance

Yellow Pear Tomato — at a glance
TypeCherry (bite-size)
Days to ripe78 days after you plant it outside
ColorYellow
Fruit sizeSmall
Best forSnacking straight off the vine

Extra fields from seed-catalog listings and university growing guides. Days to ripe and disease resistance shift with your climate and seed source — double-check with your local extension office before you buy.

Watch: growing Yellow Pear

The complete guide to growing tomatoes · MIgardener
How we prune and stake our tomatoes · MIgardener

Embedded from their creators on YouTube — full credit and views go to the channel.

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Common questions about Yellow Pear

What does Yellow Pear tomato taste like?

Mild and mellow — lightly sweet and low-acid. It's pleasant and gentle rather than bold; it doesn't have the sugary punch of a Sun Gold or the depth of a rich red cherry. Many gardeners grow it more for its looks and heavy yield than for knockout flavor.

How productive is a Yellow Pear plant?

Extremely — it's one of the most prolific tomatoes you can grow. A single healthy indeterminate vine can produce hundreds of small fruit over a season and keep going until frost. Pick often to keep it setting.

Is Yellow Pear an heirloom?

Yes — it's a genuine old heirloom, a pear-shaped yellow type documented in Europe by the 1600s and grown for well over a century. It comes true from saved seed.

How big does a Yellow Pear plant get?

Big. It's a rampant indeterminate that commonly reaches 6–8 feet and sprawls wide, so it needs a tall, sturdy support and room to spread — it can overwhelm a small bed.

Sources

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