By Nik Crawley, founder of GardenTrack · Updated July 22, 2026
✓ In your garden
Red Russian is the kale for people who think they don't like kale — flat, oak-leaf-shaped blue-green leaves with striking purple-red stems, tender and sweet enough to eat raw straight off the plant. A light frost turns it sweeter and deepens the purple. The honest catches are all about that tenderness: the thin leaves wilt fast after cutting and won't store like curly kale, and they collapse in a long braise, so it's a raw and quick-cook green rather than a stew kale. It's also, botanically, not the kale species you'd expect.
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a bundle of Red Russian kale — flat, oak-leaf-shaped, deeply lobed blue-green leaves (not curled) with distinct purple-red stems and midribs · Photo: Evan-Amos
(Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons)
· source
“The tender, sweet 'salad kale' — botanically a napus type closer to a turnip than to curly kale, frost-sweet and lovely raw, but it wilts fast and won't hold its structure like a Scotch kale will.”
SpeciesBrassica napusa turnip × cabbage type, not oleracea
Best seasonspring & fallvery cold-hardy; frost-sweetened
Raw tendernessThe salad kale 5/5
Thin, soft, floppy leaves — mild, sweet, and almost arugula-like when young, tender enough to eat raw straight off the plant or massage into a salad with almost no effort. The least tough kale on the rack.
Frost & hardinessFrost-sweet 5/5
Very cold-hardy, and a light frost markedly deepens both the sweetness (cold turns starch to sugar) and the purple blush around the stems. A standout fall and overwintering green.
Wilts & storesLimp in hours 2/5
Tender is a two-edged sword — the thin leaves wilt fast after cutting and don't hold in a bag like curly kale. Harvest in the cool morning and get it into cold water and the fridge quickly, or it's floppy within hours.
Structure when cookedNot a stew kale 2/5
The soft leaf collapses and goes silky-limp in a sauté and won't hold its shape or bite in soups, braises, or long cooks the way Lacinato or curly Scotch kale does. It's a raw / quick-cook kale, not a stew kale.
The tenderest, sweetest kale to eat raw — you just can't store it long or cook it hard.
SweetMildArugula-ishTender
✓ Tender, sweet, and best raw~ Wilts fast — chill it quickly✗ Won't hold up in long cooking
Numbers from university growing guides. Ratings are our take, judged against all kales. Tap a meter to see why.
Growing basics — shared by every kale
Red Russian grows like any other kale. The full picture — how deep to plant, spacing, feeding, pests, harvest — lives on the Kale page so it's maintained in one place.
Greenhouse or cover on: your start slides ~4 weeks earlier and your harvest stretches ~3 weeks later (shown striped).
Planting seeds straight in the ground only works where the season's long and warm — most gardeners start seeds indoors or buy young plants, or you'd pick your first tomato right as frost hits.
Comfortable — first ripe fruit lands around early May, well before your typical frost (~late Oct).
Toughen up outside
early Mar – mid Mar
Move plants outside
mid Mar – mid Mar
Plant seeds outside
mid Mar – late Mar
Growing
mid Mar – early May
Picking
early May until frost (~late Oct)
Typical dates for zone 6b — set your zone or ZIP above for yours.
What to plant near Red Russian — and what to keep away
✓ Good neighbors
Aromatic HerbsTrialed
Mixed, strong-smelling plantings make brassicas harder for pests to find — real research, modest effect. Keep mint in a pot.
DillTrialed
Dill flowers feed the tiny parasitoid wasps that hunt cabbage worms. Let some of it bloom near the bed.
Flea Beetle Trap StripTrialed
A trap strip pulls flea beetles off young seedlings. UMN found mixes of three-plus trap species beat any single one.
BeetsTraditional
On the classic chart's companion list for the cabbage family.
NasturtiumTraditional
On the WVU companion list, with an aphid-magnet reputation. If aphids pile on, pull those plants before they breed.
Onions & garlicTraditional
Old chart pairing; both hold cool-season beds.
PotatoesTraditional
Old chart pairing.
✗ Keep apart
Beans PoleTraditional
Chart canon says no. Nobody's proven why. Cheap to respect.
StrawberryTraditional
Flagged on the classic charts, including WVU's. Mechanism murky; the canon is consistent.
TomatoTraditional
Flagged on the classic charts, mechanism murky. Skip the pairing if you've got the space.
The badge is the honesty.Trialed = a published field trial · Practical = a real mechanism · Traditional = companion-chart lore. These pairings hold for every kale.
Pairings compiled from University of Minnesota Extension, West Virginia University Extension.
Growing Red Russian — the things that trip people up
Grow it as your raw / baby-leaf kale — it's the tender, mild, almost arugula-like one, sweetest after a light frost. Cut-and-come-again: take outer leaves and leave the growing center to keep producing.
Mind the cold chain. The thin leaves wilt fast, so harvest in the cool of the morning, dunk or cool them immediately, and refrigerate — it won't hold in a bag like curly kale, and it collapses in long cooking, so add it late.
Know it's a different species: Red Russian is Brassica napus (a turnip × wild-cabbage type, same species as rutabaga and canola), not the usual Brassica oleracea kale — which matters if you save seed, since it crosses with turnips and rapeseed. It's very cold-hardy and bolts in heat, so grow it spring and fall. Set your zone on the [kale page](/plants/kale/) to pin your dates.
From university growing guides (see Sources).
Where Red Russian comes from
Red Russian is an open-pollinated heirloom of the Siberian kale line — Brassica napus, which arose from a natural cross of field mustard/turnip and wild cabbage, making it the same species as rutabaga and rapeseed. The same open-lobed 'Ragged Jack' type was documented in Europe by the mid-1800s (Fearing Burr listed it in his 1863 catalog, and Vilmorin-Andrieux recorded 'Ragged Jack').
It's been grown in North America since roughly 1885, commonly credited to Russian traders bringing it into Canada. You'll find it in the record under a handful of names: Ragged Jack, Russian Red, Hanover Salad, and Rouge de Russie.
The tender, purple-stemmed leaf
Red Russian is easy to identify and easy to eat. The leaves are flat, oak-leaf or arugula-shaped, with deeply lobed, frilled-toothed margins — not the tight curls of Scotch kale — on a blue-green to gray-green blade with unmistakable purple-red stems, midribs, and veins. In cold weather the red deepens and the whole leaf blushes purple around the stem. It grows as a low, spreading, ground-hugging rosette rather than the tall stalk of a Lacinato.
The leaves are noticeably thin, tender, and floppy — soft enough to eat raw straight off the plant, milder and sweeter and far less bitter than curly kale, almost arugula-like when young. A light frost markedly deepens that sweetness, since cold converts the plant's starch to sugar. Older leaves get earthier and are better cooked, but even then it stays on the delicate, mild end of the kale spectrum.
Red Russian kale growing in a garden bed — a low, spreading rosette of flat, deeply lobed blue-green leaves with reddish-purple stems and veins · Photo: Geo Lightspeed7
(CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons)
· source
It's not the kale species you think
Here's a genuinely surprising bit of botany: Red Russian isn't the same species as most kale. It's Brassica napus (variety pabularia) — a turnip × wild-cabbage hybrid, the same species as rutabaga and canola — not the Brassica oleracea that curly and Lacinato kales belong to. Seed catalogs even disagree: some label it B. oleracea, while extension botany (NC State) files it under B. napus, Pabularia Group.
Mostly this is a fun fact, but it matters in one practical place: seed-saving. Because it's napus, it will cross with turnips, rutabaga, other napus kales, and canola/rapeseed, so keeping pure seed needs real isolation — don't assume it behaves like an oleracea kale in the seed patch.
Growing Red Russian
It's a cool-season biennial grown as an annual for greens. Give it full sun and fertile, evenly moist soil; it grows best around 50–75°F, and the seed germinates across a wide range in about 6–10 days. In spring, direct-sow after the last frost and keep sowing until daytime temps push past about 80°F; for fall, sow roughly two months before frost for full leaf, up until frost for baby leaf.
Thin to about 12–18 inches apart for full plants, or leave it dense and unthinned for baby-leaf cutting. Harvest cut-and-come-again — take the outer leaves and leave the growing center to keep producing. Flavor is best after a light frost. It's very cold-hardy and overwinters under mulch in mild zones, though expect it to bolt in spring when it resumes growth.
What goes wrong — and the fixes
Fast post-harvest wilting is the big one, and the fix is cold-chain discipline: pick in the cool of the morning, dunk or cool the leaves immediately, and refrigerate. It won't hold in a bag on the counter like a stiff curly leaf.
Cabbage-family pests all still apply — cabbage aphids in the growing tips, imported cabbage worms and loopers chewing holes, flea beetles peppering seedlings. Exclude the moths and beetles with floating row cover early, hose off aphids, and use Bt for caterpillars.
Bolting in heat and long days turns the leaves bitter — time crops for spring and fall and harvest young. And because the leaves are soft, they show freeze burn, wind tatter, and slug damage more than a stiff curly type; for maximum deep-winter durability, a Scotch curly kale holds up better even though Red Russian is plenty hardy.
In the kitchen
Raw is Red Russian's signature: baby-leaf salads and cut salad mixes, or a massaged kale salad that softens with almost no effort thanks to the tender leaf. It's also a natural in smoothies and green juice, and makes good microgreens and shoots.
When you cook it, cook it fast and add it late — a quick sauté or stir-fry — because it wilts and collapses in seconds. What it isn't is a stew kale: it won't hold its shape or bite through a long braise or a pot of soup the way Lacinato or curly kale will. Reach for those when you want structure, and reach for Red Russian when you want tender and sweet.
Red Russian kale at a glance
Red Russian Kale — at a glance
Type
Red Russian
Days to ripe
50 days after you plant it outside
Color
Green, Purple
Extra fields from seed-catalog listings and university growing guides. Days to ripe and disease resistance shift with your climate and seed source — double-check with your local extension office before you buy.
Watch: growing Red Russian
How to Grow Red Russian Kale · Free Haven FarmsHow to Harvest Red Russian Kale (Baby & Full Size) · Andrew Wilkinson
Embedded from their creators on YouTube — full credit and views go to the channel.
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Common questions about Red Russian
Is Red Russian kale good for raw salads?
It's the best kale for raw eating. The flat leaves are thin, tender, and mild — almost arugula-like when young — so you can eat them straight off the plant or massage them into a salad with very little effort, and a light frost makes them sweeter. It's far less tough and bitter than curly kale.
Why does my Red Russian kale wilt so fast?
Because the tender, thin leaves that make it great raw also lose water quickly after cutting. The fix is cold-chain discipline: harvest in the cool of the morning, dunk or cool the leaves right away, and refrigerate. It simply won't hold on the counter like a stiff curly kale.
Is Red Russian actually a kale?
Sort of — it's a kale in the kitchen but a different species botanically. Red Russian is Brassica napus (a turnip × wild-cabbage type, the same species as rutabaga and canola), not the Brassica oleracea that curly and Lacinato kales are. It matters mainly for seed-saving, since it crosses with turnips and rapeseed.
Can I use Red Russian kale in soups and braises?
You can, but it's not its strength. The soft leaf collapses and goes silky-limp, so it won't hold its shape or bite through long cooking the way Lacinato or curly Scotch kale will. Add it late to quick dishes; for stews and braises that need structure, use a sturdier kale.